There's something deeply satisfying about stepping into your backyard and plucking a fresh, sun-warmed orange straight from your own tree. For home gardeners and citrus enthusiasts alike, the navel orange tree represents one of the most rewarding fruit trees you can cultivate. Known for producing sweet, seedless oranges with that distinctive "navel" formation at the blossom end, these trees have become increasingly popular among homeowners looking to grow their own citrus. Whether you're an experienced orchardist or a beginner hoping to add your first fruit tree to your landscape, this comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about purchasing and caring for a navel orange tree.
Navel orange trees (Citrus sinensis) are evergreen trees that originated from a single mutation discovered in Brazil in the early 19th century. This mutation created the seedless characteristic that makes navel oranges so desirable for fresh eating. The "navel" itself is actually a secondary fruit that develops at the base of the primary fruit, creating that belly button-like appearance that gives these oranges their name.
These trees typically grow between 10 to 15 feet tall when mature, though dwarf varieties can be maintained at 6 to 10 feet, making them ideal for smaller yards or even large containers. The glossy, dark green leaves provide year-round visual interest, while the fragrant white blossoms that appear in spring fill your garden with an intoxicating citrus perfume. The fruit itself usually ripens between November and June, depending on your climate and the specific variety.
What makes navel oranges particularly appealing is their exceptional eating quality. The flesh is sweet, juicy, and completely seedless, with easy-to-peel skin and segments that separate cleanly. They're perfect for fresh eating, juicing, or adding to salads and desserts. The fruit stores well both on the tree and after harvest, giving you a long window to enjoy your homegrown citrus.
When shopping for a navel orange tree, you'll encounter several varieties, each with its own characteristics and advantages. Understanding these differences will help you select the best tree for your specific needs and growing conditions.
Washington Navel is the original and most widely planted navel orange variety. It produces large, seedless fruit with excellent flavor and a thick, easy-to-peel rind. The fruit ripens from December through March in most climates. Washington Navel trees are vigorous growers and relatively cold-hardy for citrus, tolerating brief periods down to about 28°F. This variety is an excellent choice for first-time citrus growers due to its reliability and forgiving nature.
Cara Cara Navel has gained tremendous popularity in recent years due to its distinctive pink to red flesh, which contains higher levels of lycopene and vitamin A than traditional navels. The flavor is exceptionally sweet with notes of berry and cherry, and lower acidity than standard navels. Cara Cara trees have similar growing requirements to Washington Navels but may be slightly less cold-tolerant. The fruit ripens from December through April and makes a stunning addition to fruit salads and desserts.
Lane Late Navel is prized for its extended harvest season, with fruit that can remain on the tree in good condition well into summer. This variety produces medium to large fruit with excellent flavor and minimal seeds. The extended harvest window makes Lane Late an excellent choice if you want fresh oranges available for a longer period. The trees are vigorous and productive, though they may take slightly longer to begin bearing than Washington Navels.
Fisher Navel is an early-ripening variety that produces fruit ready for harvest as early as October or November, giving you fresh oranges earlier in the season than most other navels. The fruit is medium-sized with good flavor, though some growers find it slightly less sweet than Washington Navel. Fisher trees are productive and relatively compact, making them suitable for smaller spaces.
Finding a quality navel orange tree requires knowing where to look and what to look for. Several purchasing options are available, each with its own advantages and considerations.
Local Nurseries and Garden Centers offer the advantage of seeing exactly what you're buying before you purchase. You can inspect the tree's health, check for pests or diseases, and get immediate advice from knowledgeable staff. Local nurseries typically stock varieties that perform well in your specific climate, reducing the guesswork involved in variety selection. The main drawback is limited selection—you may only find one or two navel orange varieties, and availability can be seasonal. Prices at local nurseries tend to be higher than online options, but you save on shipping costs and avoid the stress of shipping a live tree.
Online Specialty Citrus Nurseries provide the widest selection of varieties, including rare and specialty types you won't find locally. Reputable online nurseries like Four Winds Growers, Fast Growing Trees, and Citrus.com ship healthy, well-established trees directly to your door. These nurseries typically offer detailed growing information, customer reviews, and guarantees on their trees. The main considerations are shipping costs, which can be substantial for trees, and the inability to inspect the tree before purchase. However, established online nurseries have refined their packing methods to ensure trees arrive in excellent condition.
Big Box Home Improvement Stores like Home Depot and Lowe's seasonally carry citrus trees, including navel oranges. These stores offer competitive pricing and convenient locations, making them accessible options for many buyers. However, the trees may not receive optimal care while in the store, and staff knowledge about citrus cultivation can be limited. If you purchase from a big box store, inspect the tree carefully for signs of stress, pests, or disease before buying.
Agricultural Extension Sales and Fruit Tree Sales hosted by universities, botanical gardens, or agricultural organizations can be excellent sources for quality trees at reasonable prices. These sales often feature varieties specifically recommended for your region and provide expert advice. However, they typically occur only once or twice per year, requiring you to plan your purchase accordingly.
Whether shopping online or in person, knowing what constitutes a healthy, quality tree will help ensure your success. Several key factors should guide your purchasing decision.
Tree Size and Age significantly impact both price and how quickly you'll get fruit. Navel orange trees are typically sold in several sizes. Small starter trees in 1-gallon containers are the most affordable option, usually ranging from $25 to $40. These trees are typically 1-2 years old and 2-3 feet tall. They'll take 2-3 years before producing significant fruit, but they adapt well to transplanting and are easier to ship. Medium trees in 3-5 gallon containers cost $50-$80, stand 3-4 feet tall, and may produce some fruit within 1-2 years. Large trees in 7-15 gallon containers are the most expensive option at $100-$200 or more, but they're 4-6 feet tall, well-established, and may bear fruit the first year after planting.
Rootstock is a crucial consideration that many first-time buyers overlook. Citrus trees are almost always grafted, meaning the fruiting variety (the scion) is attached to a different root system (the rootstock) selected for specific characteristics. Common rootstocks for navel oranges include Carrizo citrange, which offers good cold hardiness and disease resistance; Troyer citrange, similar to Carrizo with excellent vigor; and Flying Dragon, a dwarfing rootstock that keeps trees compact for container growing or small spaces. When purchasing, ask about the rootstock and ensure it's appropriate for your growing conditions.
Health Indicators should be carefully assessed before purchase. Look for vibrant, dark green leaves without yellowing, brown spots, or curling. Check both sides of leaves for pests like aphids, scale, or spider mites. The trunk should be straight and free from wounds or cankers. Roots should be white or light-colored if visible, never brown or mushy. Avoid trees with wilted leaves, which may indicate root problems or inadequate watering. The graft union (a slight bulge or change in bark texture where the scion meets the rootstock) should be well-healed with no gaps or oozing.
Certification and Guarantees provide important protections for your investment. Reputable nurseries should provide disease-free certification, particularly important for citrus which can harbor serious diseases like citrus greening. Many nurseries offer a one-year guarantee, replacing trees that fail to thrive due to defects or shipping damage. Always read the terms carefully—most guarantees don't cover neglect or improper care.
Understanding the full cost of purchasing and establishing a navel orange tree helps you budget appropriately and avoid surprises. The tree itself is just the beginning of your investment.
Initial Tree Cost varies widely based on size, variety, and source. Budget $30-$50 for small starter trees, $60-$100 for medium-sized trees, and $120-$250 for large, established specimens. Rare varieties like Cara Cara may command premium prices. Dwarf trees on specialized rootstocks sometimes cost more than standard-sized trees of the same age.
Shipping Costs for online purchases can add $20-$50 or more to your total, depending on tree size and your location. Some nurseries offer free shipping on orders over a certain amount, while others include shipping in the tree price. Factor this into your comparison shopping—a tree that appears cheaper online may actually cost more once shipping is included.
Planting Supplies and Amendments represent additional upfront costs. You'll need quality potting soil or soil amendments ($15-$30), fertilizer specifically formulated for citrus ($10-$25), mulch ($10-$20), and possibly a container if growing in a pot ($30-$100 for a quality large container with drainage). If planting in the ground, you may need compost, sulfur or lime to adjust pH, and stakes for support.
Long-term Care Costs should also be considered. Annual fertilizer costs run $20-$40 per tree. You may need pest control products ($15-$40 annually), pruning tools ($20-$50 one-time purchase), and potentially frost protection materials if you're in a marginal climate ($20-$50). Container-grown trees will need periodic repotting and fresh soil every few years.
Success with navel oranges depends heavily on providing appropriate growing conditions. Understanding these requirements before purchase helps you determine whether a navel orange tree is right for your situation.
Climate and Hardiness are primary considerations. Navel oranges thrive in USDA hardiness zones 9-11, though they can be grown in zone 8 with protection. They need warm to hot summers for fruit development and can tolerate brief periods down to 28-30°F when mature. Prolonged freezing temperatures will damage or kill the tree. If you're in a marginal climate, consider growing in a container that can be moved indoors during cold snaps, or be prepared to provide frost protection with covers, heat sources, or strategic placement near south-facing walls.
Sunlight Requirements are non-negotiable for good fruit production. Navel orange trees need full sun, meaning at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8-12 hours is ideal. Insufficient light results in poor fruit set, reduced sweetness, and increased susceptibility to pests and diseases. When selecting a planting location, observe sun patterns throughout the day and across seasons. South-facing locations typically receive the most consistent sun exposure.
Soil Conditions significantly impact tree health and productivity. Navel oranges prefer well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5, with 6.5 being ideal. Heavy clay soils that retain water can lead to root rot, while extremely sandy soils may not retain enough moisture and nutrients. If your native soil is less than ideal, amend it heavily with compost and other organic matter, or consider planting in a raised bed or container where you have complete control over the growing medium. Good drainage is absolutely critical—citrus roots cannot tolerate standing water.
Water Needs require careful attention, especially during establishment. Navel orange trees need consistent moisture but not waterlogged conditions. During the growing season, deep watering once or twice weekly is typically sufficient, though this varies with temperature, humidity, and soil type. The goal is to keep the root zone evenly moist but never soggy. Mulching around the tree helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Reduce watering frequency in winter when the tree is less active.
The decision between container and in-ground growing depends on your climate, available space, and personal preferences. Each approach has distinct advantages and challenges.
Container Growing Advantages include mobility, allowing you to move the tree to optimal sun exposure or bring it indoors during cold weather. Containers are ideal for small spaces like patios, balconies, or urban gardens. You have complete control over soil quality and drainage. Container growing also allows people in unsuitable climates to successfully grow citrus. Dwarf varieties on Flying Dragon rootstock are specifically bred for container culture and can thrive for many years in large pots.
Container Growing Challenges require more frequent watering since containers dry out faster than ground soil. You'll need to fertilize more often as nutrients leach out with watering. Trees in containers typically produce less fruit than in-ground trees and require periodic root pruning and repotting every 3-5 years. Large containers (15-25 gallons minimum for mature trees) are heavy and difficult to move once filled with soil. Winter protection in cold climates means finding indoor space with adequate light.
In-Ground Planting Advantages allow trees to develop extensive root systems, resulting in larger trees with higher fruit production. Once established, in-ground trees require less frequent watering and fertilizing than container trees. They're more stable in wind and less susceptible to temperature fluctuations. In-ground trees can live for decades with proper care, becoming landscape focal points.
In-Ground Planting Challenges include permanent placement—you can't move the tree if conditions prove unsuitable. You're limited by your native soil quality and climate. In-ground trees take up more space and may eventually shade out other plants. Cold protection is more challenging since you can't simply move the tree indoors.
Timing your purchase can impact both price and success rate. Understanding seasonal factors helps you make the best decision.
Spring (March-May) is the ideal planting time in most climates. Trees planted in spring have the entire growing season to establish before winter. Nursery selection is typically best in spring as new stock arrives. Prices may be higher due to peak demand, but the timing advantages often outweigh the cost difference. Trees planted in spring experience less transplant shock and establish more quickly.
Fall (September-November) is the second-best planting window, particularly in mild winter climates. Trees have time to establish roots before going dormant, then burst into growth in spring. Fall planting works well in zones 9-11 but is riskier in zone 8 where harsh winters may damage newly planted trees. Nurseries often discount trees in fall to clear inventory, offering potential savings.
Summer planting is possible but challenging. Heat stress during establishment requires vigilant watering and may slow root development. However, if you find a great deal on a healthy tree, summer planting can succeed with proper care. Provide afternoon shade for the first few weeks and water frequently.
Winter is generally the worst time to plant citrus in most climates. Cold temperatures slow root growth, and newly planted trees are more susceptible to cold damage. However, in frost-free climates (zones 10-11), winter planting can work well. Many nurseries have limited stock in winter, and shipping may be delayed by weather.
Bringing your navel orange tree home is just the beginning. Proper initial care sets the foundation for years of healthy growth and abundant fruit production.
Immediate Post-Purchase Care starts with gradual acclimation if the tree has been indoors or in a greenhouse. Place it in partial shade for 3-5 days before moving to full sun to prevent leaf burn. Water thoroughly if the soil is dry, but don't overwater. Inspect carefully for any pests that may have been missed at purchase and treat if necessary. If planting won't happen immediately, keep the tree in its container in a protected location with adequate water and sunlight.
Planting Technique significantly impacts long-term success. Dig a hole 2-3 times wider than the root ball but no deeper—the top of the root ball should sit slightly above ground level to ensure good drainage. Rough up the sides of the hole to help roots penetrate surrounding soil. Remove the tree from its container carefully, gently loosening circling roots. Position the tree so the graft union is 4-6 inches above soil level. Backfill with native soil mixed with compost, firming gently to eliminate air pockets. Create a watering basin around the tree and water deeply. Apply 2-4 inches of mulch around the tree, keeping it several inches away from the trunk.
First-Year Fertilization should be approached cautiously. Wait 4-6 weeks after planting before applying any fertilizer to avoid burning tender new roots. Use a citrus-specific fertilizer following package directions, typically applying every 6-8 weeks during the growing season. Reduce or eliminate fertilization in fall and winter when growth slows. Young trees need less fertilizer than mature trees—start with half the recommended amount and increase gradually.
Pruning and Training begins early to establish good structure. Remove any branches growing below the graft union immediately—these are rootstock suckers that will not produce navel oranges. Prune to create an open center that allows light and air circulation. Remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches. Light pruning can be done anytime, but major pruning should wait until after harvest. Young trees benefit from training to develop strong scaffold branches at wide angles from the trunk.
Pest and Disease Monitoring should become a regular habit. Check your tree weekly for signs of problems. Common pests include aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and citrus leafminer. Many pests can be controlled with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Diseases like citrus canker, greasy spot, and root rot require different approaches. Early detection and treatment prevent minor issues from becoming major problems. Maintain good cultural practices—proper watering, fertilization, and pruning—as the first line of defense against pests and diseases.
Purchasing a navel orange tree represents an investment in years of fresh, homegrown citrus and the simple pleasure of harvesting fruit from your own backyard. By understanding the different varieties available, knowing where and when to buy, recognizing quality indicators, and providing proper care, you set yourself up for success with this rewarding fruit tree.
Whether you choose a classic Washington Navel, the colorful Cara Cara, or another variety, your navel orange tree will provide not just delicious fruit but also evergreen beauty, fragrant blossoms, and a connection to the natural cycles of growth and harvest. Take time to select a healthy tree from a reputable source, prepare your planting site properly, and commit to consistent care during the critical establishment period.
The journey from purchasing your tree to harvesting your first homegrown navel orange may take a few years, but the wait is worthwhile. There's truly nothing quite like the taste of a sun-ripened orange picked fresh from your own tree, and the satisfaction of successfully growing your own fruit is immeasurable. With the information provided in this guide, you're well-equipped to make an informed purchase and provide the care your navel orange tree needs to thrive for decades to come.
